www.blajournal.com

The Next Generation of Independent Watchmakers: AHCI Candidates Charting Horology's Future

November 26
The Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), established in 1985 by Vincent Calabrese and Svend Andersen, stands as a beacon for independent horology. It actively promotes and preserves the art of artisanal watch and clockmaking, a mission that becomes increasingly vital in an era of industrial growth. Comprising 36 members and five candidates, the AHCI represents a diverse collection of voices, each interpreting watchmaking in their distinctive way. The organization's history includes nurturing renowned talents like Kari Voutilainen and Philippe Dufour, alongside avant-garde designers such as Felix Baumgartner and Hajime Asaoka. This article delves into the narratives of five current AHCI candidates, exploring their motivations, latest creations, and their perspectives on the future of independent watchmaking. Their contributions are crucial for ensuring the continuity and evolution of this intricate craft across generations.

Fostering Innovation: The Independent Spirits of Modern Watchmaking

Marco Guarino: Charting Celestial Rhythms

Hailing from Italy and joining the AHCI as a candidate in 2024, Marco Guarino's lifelong fascination with astronomy naturally progressed into an ardor for astronomical timepieces. After completing his studies at a watchmaking institution in Turin, he established his own workshop, dedicated to crafting watches that meticulously track celestial phenomena. These intricate creations range from the equation of time and sidereal hours to perpetual calendars and lunar equations. Guarino expresses that his passion for watches is unique within his family, an "atypical" interest that has shaped his professional journey.

Marco Guarino's Distinct Path and Innovations

Unlike many of his peers who gravitated towards repair or restoration, Marco forged a different path. He notes the historical isolation of Italian watchmakers, a situation that only began to change with the advent of the internet in the late 20th century. This new accessibility opened up previously unimagined possibilities. Utilizing his own resources, Guarino began equipping his first workshop, acquiring essential machinery like a toolroom lathe and a substantial bench milling machine. He then embarked on calculating, designing, and constructing astronomical watches, initially on commission and later in small production runs, by developing custom modules. His portfolio includes watches featuring equations of time, perpetual calendars, and moon phases, all achieved through simple gear trains engineered to ensure astonishing precision, with errors as minimal as three hundredths of a second per lunar cycle.

Machiel Hulsman: A Return to Mechanical Mastery

Machiel Hulsman, an AHCI Candidate from the Netherlands since 2022, reignited his lifelong passion for mechanical engineering and horology after a significant career shift from banking and insurance consultancy. His inaugural creation, the Marie-Elise, required an impressive five and a half years to complete. This timepiece is a testament to his dedication, being entirely crafted in-house, with only the mainspring and hairspring sourced externally. This commitment arose from Hulsman's desire for genuine independence in watchmaking, distinguishing himself from what he perceived as misleading marketing in the industry. He resolved to fabricate every component himself, including gears, screws, rubies, and even his own escapement, thereby granting him complete creative freedom over his designs and complications.

Machiel Hulsman's Intricate Creations and AHCI's Impact

Despite the challenges of pursuing true independence outside of Switzerland, Hulsman persevered through years of frustration and effort, ultimately finding his endeavors worthwhile. He is currently engrossed in several ambitious projects, including a three-axis tourbillon watch that incorporates a 24-hour alarm, a 12mm rotating globe, a three-dimensional moon, jumping hours, pausing minutes at 12, and a power reserve indicator. Additionally, he is developing the "Easy Perpetual" project, aiming to create the world's most straightforward perpetual calendar, devoid of pushers or correctors, ensuring seamless synchronization with quick-set date adjustments. Hulsman views the AHCI as a crucial pillar for structure and unity within the watchmaking community, especially for those outside traditional watchmaking hubs. He hopes the Academy will continue to champion the artisanal aspect of watchmaking, fostering knowledge exchange among craftsmen, driven by a shared passion for the art.

Johannes Kallinich: Blending Tradition with Innovation

Johannes Kallinich, based in Glashütte, Germany's watchmaking heartland, is among the most commercially adept AHCI candidates. As a co-founder of Kallinich Claeys, he showcased his brand at Dubai Watch Week, demonstrating a vision that merges traditional watchmaking expertise with a modern approach. Kallinich's journey to becoming an AHCI Candidate in early 2025 was shaped by a formative career at A. Lange & Söhne, often considered Germany's equivalent to Patek Philippe. During his three-year apprenticeship from 2010 to 2013 and subsequent work, he honed his skills on a range of watches, from simpler models to complex pieces like the Lange 1, featuring a large date and power reserve indicator.

Kallinich's Pursuit of Perfection and Community

His tenure at A. Lange & Söhne instilled in Kallinich an unwavering commitment to precision and meticulous craftsmanship. He found himself driven to further challenge his abilities, leading him to pursue master watchmaker certification. Eschewing the conventional approach of merely modifying an ETA 6498 movement, Kallinich embarked on an ambitious project to build his own watch from the ground up, replacing virtually every component, including main plates, bridges, and screws. This dedication to perfection eventually led him back to Lange, where he worked in the chronograph department, solidifying his passion for complex mechanisms. Recognizing a desire to explore beyond Lange's offerings, he co-founded Kallinich Claeys with fellow Lange alumnus, Belgian watchmaker Thibault Claeys. Their latest project, a refreshed version of their debut model, the Üinser, highlights exceptional handcraft from the dial and hands to every intricate finish. Kallinich emphasizes the AHCI's vital role in supporting independent, artisanal watchmakers, providing a platform and a community grounded in respect for traditional craftsmanship, thereby nurturing future talents.

Dann Phimphrachanh: A Poetic Vision of Independence

Dann Phimphrachanh, a new AHCI candidate, garnered significant attention from collectors and media with his debut watch, The Seconde Vive. His journey began in Switzerland, arriving with limited resources but an unwavering belief in his craft. Over eleven years, he amassed invaluable experience at prestigious watchmakers such as Parmigiani, Greubel Forsey, Daniel Roth, and Jaeger-LeCoultre, eventually qualifying as a conceptor watchmaker after a three-year evening course in 2012. When asked about his initial inspiration for pursuing an independent path, Dann's response reflects a deep personal conviction. He speaks of watchmaking as a growing inspiration since his apprenticeship, envisioning himself as a creator, much like the great watchmakers of the past who dedicated their lives to the craft. For Dann, independence represents the ultimate culmination of years of practice and refinement, a clear and inevitable pursuit.

Dann Phimphrachanh's Artistic Philosophy and AHCI's Role

The Seconde Vive, Dann's debut timepiece, radiates a strong identity, hinting at a promising future for Phimphrachanh. He explains that its creation was driven by a desire to demonstrate his technical prowess to his peers, establishing legitimacy within the community, while also offering the public an observable mechanism that is easily understood. Dann aspires to maintain a thread of continuity in artisanal watchmaking, even on a modest scale. He firmly believes in living by one's deepest convictions, prioritizing them over commercially driven frameworks. Reflecting on how the AHCI safeguards the future of artisanal independence, Dann describes it as a collective of passionate artisans. He notes that while the industry is often driven by rapid growth, craftsmen prioritize their art and creations. This approach to watchmaking, he concludes, is fundamentally a mindset that fuels creativity in all who possess it.

Maciej Misnik: From Physics to Fine Horology

Maciej Misnik, a Polish AHCI candidate, brings an unconventional academic background to the world of watchmaking. A recipient of the 2022 F.P. Journe Young Talent Award, he primarily focuses on pocket watches. Self-taught, his award-winning entry was a marine-themed pocket watch featuring a tourbillon and detent escapement. Misnik's unique journey includes a BSc and PhD in technical physics from Gdańsk University of Technology, where he spent over 11 years conducting scientific research in areas far removed from horology. He humorously recounts his watchmaking origins as disassembling a cuckoo clock as a toddler, but more seriously, he states that watchmaking has been his passion for as long as he can remember. In 2019, after a decade working with high vacuum as a physicist at the Institute of Tele- and Radio Technology, he resigned to establish his own small watchmaking workshop.

Misnik's Coincidental Success and Future Endeavors

During the summer of 2019, Misnik designed his first wristwatch, which included a simple stopwatch complication. However, due to various unforeseen circumstances, including the pandemic, his business initially struggled, incurring losses due to a lack of clientele. Undeterred, Maciej continued his work in his spare time after completing his PhD, focusing on a tourbillon pocket watch. This dedication bore fruit when, in February, he completed the watch and, in April, received the prestigious F.P. Journe award. This pivotal moment convinced him that watchmaking could indeed be his life's path, a series of "coincidences" that shaped his destiny. Currently, Maciej Misnik is busy completing a tourbillon wristwatch for a client and constructing several clocks, expressing a casual confidence in the demanding hours of labor behind each piece. He hopes to display at least one of his clocks in Geneva by April 2026. Regarding the impact of his work, he anticipates that time will reveal its influence, noting that having had a student for a summer internship suggests he already has a following among aspiring watchmakers. Misnik also emphasizes the vital role of the AHCI in ensuring the industry's future, seeing it as a crucial platform for independent watchmakers to gather, exchange knowledge, and promote traditional values through exhibitions and discussions, thereby preserving the spirit of traditional watchmaking for generations to come.

latest news

Schaefer & Companions Solune Grand Art Marqueterie: A Fusion of Artistry and Horology
November 26

Schaefer & Companions Solune Grand Art Marqueterie: A Fusion of Artistry and Horology

Schaefer & Companions, a new brand from Le Locle, introduces the Solune Grand Art Marqueterie collection. These timepieces are born from a collaboration with artisan Sabine Aucoulon, who masterfully applies straw marquetry and embroidery to create unique dials. The collection offers three distinct models with a bold, angular case design inspired by Renaissance and Enlightenment aesthetics. Powered by the reliable ETA 2892-A2 movement, these watches aim to make artistic watchmaking more accessible.

Blancpain Unveils $2 Million Grande Double Sonnerie, Redefining High Horology
November 26

Blancpain Unveils $2 Million Grande Double Sonnerie, Redefining High Horology

Blancpain, the world's oldest watch brand, is making a bold return to high horology with its new Grande Double Sonnerie. Priced at $2 million, this timepiece is the culmination of an eight-year development process, featuring 21 patents, 1,053 movement components, and a unique four-note chiming mechanism. This ambitious creation aims to re-establish Blancpain's position at the pinnacle of watchmaking, challenging independent brands, and offering an unparalleled emotional experience for collectors.

A Journey Through Elegance: The Tour d'Elegance with Wilhelm Schmid
November 26

A Journey Through Elegance: The Tour d'Elegance with Wilhelm Schmid

This article recounts a memorable experience at the Audrain Newport Concours & Motor Week, focusing on the Tour d'Elegance. The author had the unique opportunity to navigate for A. Lange & Söhne's CEO, Wilhelm Schmid, in a vintage Porsche, discussing luxury timepieces and classic automobiles amidst the scenic Newport coastline. It offers a glimpse into the world where horology and automotive excellence intersect.

Movado's 1917 Heritage Collection: A Timeless Revival
November 26

Movado's 1917 Heritage Collection: A Timeless Revival

Movado's 1917 Heritage Collection resurrects the brand's early 20th-century aesthetic, offering a modern reinterpretation of their classic geometric watch designs. This collection, celebrating a century of design evolution, bridges Movado's rich past as a pocket watchmaker with contemporary sensibilities. Featuring rectangular cases, stepped bezels, and minimalist dials, these watches are available in various sizes and colorways, powered by both automatic and quartz movements. Endorsed by NBA star Tyrese Haliburton, the collection aims to appeal to a broad audience seeking timeless style with a touch of vintage flair.

Titanic Pocket Watch Sets New Auction Record at $2.3 Million
November 26

Titanic Pocket Watch Sets New Auction Record at $2.3 Million

A gold pocket watch belonging to Isidor Straus, a wealthy passenger who perished on the Titanic, has been auctioned for a record £1.78 million (approximately $2.3 million). This timepiece, engraved with Straus's initials and the date of his 43rd birthday, was recovered from his body after the sinking and has now become the most expensive piece of Titanic memorabilia ever sold, highlighting the enduring human interest in the ship's tragic history and the personal stories entwined with it.

Fears and Ace Jewelers Collaborate on a 'De Stijl' Inspired Brunswick 38 Watch
November 26

Fears and Ace Jewelers Collaborate on a 'De Stijl' Inspired Brunswick 38 Watch

Fears and Ace Jewelers have unveiled their Brunswick 38 "De Stijl Edition," a timepiece that combines the classic Brunswick design with the artistic principles of the Dutch De Stijl movement. This limited-edition watch features a vibrant dial composed of yellow, blue, red, black, and gray geometric shapes, reflecting the movement's focus on reduction, clarity, and primary colors. It is powered by a La Joux-Perret D100 manual-winding movement and is water-resistant to 100 meters.