www.blajournal.com

Head-to-Head: Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 vs. Cartier Santos Galbée XL

January 25

This week's Sunday Morning Showdown takes a personal turn as two editors from Fratello put their cherished timepieces in a friendly competition. Thomas advocates for his vintage 1967 Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601, emphasizing its timeless aesthetic and durable mechanics. In contrast, Daan presents his Cartier Santos Galbée XL, praising its versatile design that expertly marries athletic functionality with sophisticated style. Both watches, esteemed for their enduring charm and adaptable nature, offer a fascinating comparison for discerning watch aficionados.

A Detailed Look: Personal Timepieces in the Spotlight

The latest edition of the Sunday Morning Showdown, unveiled on January 25, 2026, by authors Thomas and Daan, features a unique and personal clash of horological titans: Thomas’s 1967 Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 against Daan’s Cartier Santos Galbée XL. This unusual duel stems from a provocative challenge set by their editor, RJ, to pit personal watches against each other, transcending the usual objective reviews to delve into individual preferences and emotional connections.

Thomas's Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601, a product of the brand's four-digit era (1945–1977), is celebrated for its distinctive “Japan dial” — a no-lume feature designed for markets with restrictions on radioactive materials. Acquired during his time as a vintage watch dealer in Amsterdam, this particular Datejust captured Thomas's heart with its classic fluted white gold bezel, Jubilee bracelet (albeit an American market version with an overhanging crown clasp), and an impeccably clean silver pie-pan dial, eschewing the patina often found in watches of its age. He highlights the 16xx generation as the zenith of Datejust design, marking a period when the watch truly solidified its unique identity, moving past earlier models that borrowed more heavily from contemporary trends. The reliability and ease of maintenance of its Caliber 1570/1575 movement further bolster his argument for its enduring appeal.

Daan’s Cartier Santos Galbée XL, specifically a 2006 Ref. 2823, represents his pursuit of a versatile daily wear that combines elegance with sportiness. This watch stepped in after his 1974 blue-dial Rolex Datejust Ref. 1603 failed to fully captivate him. Inspired by the 1978 Cartier Santos, a sportier offshoot of the dressier Santos Dumont, Daan's chosen model features a 29 x 41mm case that wears like a larger 36mm watch. He is drawn to its unique design, characterized by visible screws, a square silhouette, polished accents, and Cartier's signature Roman numerals. Despite initial reservations about its thickness, the Santos Galbée XL quickly dispelled his doubts upon wearing, proving to be less fragile than his previous Datejust. Its silvery-white dial with black lacquered Roman numerals strikes a perfect balance between sophistication and athleticism, complemented by a robust all-steel construction and 50-meter water resistance. Daan proudly refers to it as his ideal “go anywhere, do anything elegantly” (GADAE) watch, embracing the character gained from its inevitable scratches.

The discussion inevitably touches upon the broader context of watch preferences, acknowledging the subjective nature of choosing between these two iconic brands and models. The previous week's showdown saw the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch "Reverse Panda" narrowly defeat the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona "Le Mans," underscoring the passionate and varied opinions within the watch community. This week, the decision lies with the readers to weigh the merits of vintage Rolex's heritage and enduring design against Cartier's blend of sporty elegance and unique aesthetic. Both Thomas and Daan invite their audience to cast their votes and share their personal justifications, emphasizing the personal connection to these masterfully crafted timepieces.

This fascinating contest between Thomas's vintage Rolex and Daan's elegant Cartier highlights a crucial aspect of watch collecting and appreciation: the profound personal connection one develops with a timepiece. It's more than just a mechanism; it's a statement, a companion, and often, a repository of memories and aspirations. This duel reminds us that while technical specifications and market value hold significance, the ultimate choice often boils down to an individual's aesthetic sensibilities, comfort, and the unique narrative a watch weaves into their life. It underscores that true horological value extends beyond mere mechanics to encompass personal history and emotional resonance.

latest news

Citizen Unveils New Eco-Drive Endeavor Chronographs for 2026
January 23

Citizen Unveils New Eco-Drive Endeavor Chronographs for 2026

Citizen is launching three new nautical-themed Eco-Drive Endeavor Chronograph watches for 2026, featuring solar power and a pioneering unidirectional ceramic bezel insert for their core collection. These 43mm watches boast stainless steel cases, wave-patterned dials, and 100m water resistance, catering to a broad audience with a balance of practical design and value.

Richemont Divests Baume & Mercier, Signifying Industry Reshuffle
January 23

Richemont Divests Baume & Mercier, Signifying Industry Reshuffle

Richemont has completed the sale of its Baume & Mercier watch brand to Italy's Damiani Group. This strategic move is anticipated to trigger further brand sales and asset realignments within the Swiss watch industry. Baume & Mercier, despite its long history, has faced financial challenges, prompting Richemont to shed underperforming assets. The acquisition is expected to enhance Baume & Mercier's market presence through Damiani's distribution networks.

Mermont Unveils La Parfaite: A Distinctive Single-Hand Timepiece
January 23

Mermont Unveils La Parfaite: A Distinctive Single-Hand Timepiece

Mermont, a new independent watchmaker founded by Sebastian Bey-Haut and featuring the expertise of Nicolas Delaloye, introduces its debut watch, La Parfaite. This unique timepiece challenges conventional timekeeping with a single-hand display, prioritizing a serene experience over precise minute readings, while maintaining exceptional accuracy through its meticulously crafted La Joux-Perret D101 movement.

Top Gaming-Inspired Timepieces: A Curated Selection
January 23

Top Gaming-Inspired Timepieces: A Curated Selection

Explore the exciting world where horology meets video games. This article delves into five remarkable watch collaborations inspired by popular gaming franchises, from Hamilton's Call of Duty edition to TAG Heuer's Mario Kart series and G-Shock's League of Legends watches. Discover how renowned brands are tapping into the vibrant gaming community, creating unique and collectible timepieces that resonate with enthusiasts of both watches and video games.

Tertium Quid Watch Tokyo Debuts Model R, a Vintage-Inspired Alarm Watch
January 23

Tertium Quid Watch Tokyo Debuts Model R, a Vintage-Inspired Alarm Watch

Tertium Quid Watch Tokyo, a new independent Japanese watchmaker, introduces its inaugural timepiece, the Model R alarm watch. Founded by seasoned collectors Shun Horiuchi and Takyh Yamashina, the brand aims to offer a unique 'third entity' in a watch enthusiast's collection. The Model R features a 38mm stainless steel case, a classic sector dial, and a meticulously restored vintage A. Schild AS1475 movement with haute horlogerie finishing. This limited-edition piece blends traditional Japanese craftsmanship with Swiss watchmaking heritage, creating a distinctive and highly sought-after collector's item.

Richemont Divests Baume & Mercier to Italian Damiani Group
January 23

Richemont Divests Baume & Mercier to Italian Damiani Group

Richemont has sold its luxury watch brand Baume & Mercier to the Italian Damiani Group. This acquisition marks a pivotal moment for the 195-year-old Swiss watchmaker, as it transitions to an owner with extensive experience in the luxury jewelry and watch market. The Damiani Group plans to boost Baume & Mercier's global presence and visibility, leveraging its distribution network and eventually establishing monobrand boutiques. This move is expected to rejuvenate the brand and re-establish its prominence in the accessible luxury segment.