Holthinrichs, the esteemed Dutch watch brand, marks its tenth anniversary with the introduction of two exceptional models: the Lab Series 1.S and 1.GMT. These timepieces are a testament to the brand's commitment to distinctive design and innovative craftsmanship, particularly through their unique domed copper-oxide patina dials. Leveraging the 'Horlogerie Brut' philosophy, which celebrates raw textures and the inherent beauty of materials, these watches present a compelling blend of elegance and experimental artistry. Both models feature a finely crafted 3D-printed titanium case and custom-finished movements, making them notable additions for collectors seeking exclusive and visually arresting horological creations.

The Holthinrichs Lab Series, while not entirely new, continues to captivate with each iteration. The brand consistently impresses with its ability to adapt and reinterpret its signature case with novel dial designs. The core principle, 'Horlogerie Brut,' underpins these new releases, focusing on deriving textures, finishes, and colors directly from manufacturing processes and material characteristics. This approach leads to an experimental series where each watch possesses a unique character. The domed copper-oxide patina dials are a highlight, commanding attention with their striking appearance, an effect that was immediately evident during a recent hands-on preview of the 1.S and 1.GMT models.

The narrative behind these new Lab Series watches intertwines with significant milestones in Holthinrichs' history. The design of the Lab Series 1.S pays homage to the very first watch crafted by Michiel Holthinrichs a decade ago, featuring a classic small-seconds layout. The Raw Ornament Bronze from 2021 also plays a crucial role, as it was the first to showcase the 'Horlogerie Brut' concept that defines the new patina dials. This lineage of design and innovative material treatment renders the new Lab Series releases not just time-telling instruments but also profound storytellers of the brand's evolution.

A closer inspection reveals the meticulous details that define these watches. Both the 1.S and 1.GMT share a 3D-printed Grade 5 titanium case, measuring 38.5mm in width, 46mm from lug to lug, and a slender 9.85mm in thickness (including the domed sapphire crystal). The case's flowing lines contribute to a sense of elegance and slenderness, while the detailed finishing showcases exceptional craftsmanship. The brand's distinctive Art Deco-inspired case, with its rough textures and natural colors, creates a captivating contrast that has consistently drawn admiration.

The dials are particularly noteworthy, beginning as solid, domed pieces of copper. A sunburst pattern, along with milled and laser-etched layers, forms the base, onto which the copper patina is applied using a specialized in-house process—a technique perfected during the development of the Raw Ornament Bronze. This treatment results in a unique color and texture, with these latest dials predominantly featuring an azure-blue hue complemented by subtle mossy-green accents, making each piece a singular work of art.

The Lab Series 1.S features a sunburst pattern radiating from its sub-seconds register, which is rendered in a deep dark green due to the intricate pattern. The Holthinrichs logo, positioned at 12 o'clock, appears in a light golden tone, adding a touch of sophistication. A standout feature is the cantilevered titanium hour markers that seem to float above the dial, enhancing its three-dimensional quality. The hands, meticulously finished with facets, complete the elegant aesthetic. Turning the watch over, the wearer is greeted by the bespoke rotor of the Sellita SW360-1 movement. This tungsten rotor is hand-carved and heat-treated to achieve subtle blue and purple tones, harmonizing with the dial's artistic presentation. The movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, has 31 jewels, and offers a 56-hour power reserve. The ensemble is finished with a cognac-colored rooster-leg leather strap and a custom titanium buckle.

The Lab Series 1.GMT boasts an even more dramatic dial. While sharing the domed copper base and sunburst pattern, it incorporates a striking azimuthal projection of Earth, viewed from the North Pole. This map design elegantly references the radial division of time zones. The darker brown tones of the map are achieved through a microbrush technique that selectively removes excess patina, highlighting the artistry involved. A 24-hour ring with dotted markers and Breguet-style numerals, in a brushed brass finish, provides a clear contrast while complementing the dial's texture. Like the 1.S, it features cantilevered titanium hour markers, but these, along with the hands, are filled with Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility. A slender seconds hand with a domed tip and a brass-colored GMT hand further distinguish this travel-oriented model.

Powering the Lab Series 1.GMT is the Sellita SW330-2, an automatic GMT movement with 25 jewels, operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offering a 56-hour power reserve. The movement also features a custom-patinated rotor, echoing the aesthetic of the dial. Although it's a caller-style GMT, meaning the 12-hour hand is not independently adjustable, the watch's overall visual impact, particularly its bespoke rotor, more than compensates. While previewed with a cognac strap, the standard offering will be a burgundy rooster-leg leather strap with a titanium pin buckle, adding another layer of refinement.

On the wrist, both the Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S and 1.GMT radiate visual splendor. The synergy between the elegant yet striking case and the captivating dials creates a truly special wearing experience. The immediate impression is one of wearing a unique piece of art, where the meticulous craftsmanship is palpable. For many, the Lab Series 1.S, with its simpler design, allows the materials and textures to truly shine, making it a favorite despite the GMT's travel utility. The realization that the intricate map on the GMT dial was hand-brushed further elevates the appreciation for the artistry behind these limited editions. It is anticipated that all 100 pieces of each model will quickly find their owners, given their exceptional quality and distinctive appeal. The 1.S is priced at €5,900 (excluding taxes), and the 1.GMT at €6,500 (excluding taxes). Both are available directly from the brand's official website, representing an impressive kickoff to Holthinrichs' tenth-anniversary celebrations.