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Daniel Roth Unveils the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton Watch

January 19

The esteemed watchmaking name, Daniel Roth, renowned for its influence in independent horology during the 1980s, has been revitalized by Louis Vuitton's La Fabrique Du Temps. Following the re-introduction of the Tourbillon and Extra Plat models, the brand now unveils a more contemporary creation: the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton. This timepiece, crafted under the guidance of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, showcases a meticulously decorated, fully transparent design, highlighting the intricate mechanical artistry within. Its ultra-thin profile and refined aesthetics continue Daniel Roth's legacy of elegant and sophisticated watchmaking, offering a modern reinterpretation of classic horological principles.

This new Daniel Roth offering, the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton, appears to be a direct skeletonized evolution of the Extra Plat Rose Gold, though with distinct enhancements. A primary difference lies in the extensively open-worked movement, allowing a full view of its inner workings. The watch retains Roth’s iconic ellipsocurvex (double ellipse) case shape, presented in a compact 38.6mm length (excluding lugs) by 35.5mm width. Fashioned from polished 18K rose gold, the case features the brand's signature gadroon detailing on its side profile, adding to its refined aesthetic. This design choice not only pays homage to the brand's heritage but also provides a contemporary transparency that distinguishes it from its predecessors.

A notable feature of this skeletonized Extra Plat is its reduced thickness, measuring an impressive 6.9mm, making it even more slender than the closed-dial editions, which stand at 7.7mm. This sleek and compact case is equipped with flat sapphire crystals on both the front and back, ensuring clarity and protection. The watch also offers a water resistance of 30 meters, adding a degree of practicality to its delicate design. These specifications underscore the technical prowess involved in achieving such a thin yet robust construction.

The dial, or rather its deliberate absence, is a central element of this timepiece. With only blued steel arrowhead-shaped hands for indicating hours and minutes, nothing obstructs the view of the meticulously crafted movement. The omission of indexes, tracks, or markers transforms the watch face into a masterclass of horological mechanics and intricate finishing, providing an unobstructed visual experience of the movement's beauty and complexity.

Powering the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is the calibre DR002SR, which largely shares its technical foundation with the DR002 movement found in the closed-dial models. This movement, developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, is hand-wound and features a free-sprung balance oscillating at a 4Hz frequency. It provides a substantial 65-hour power reserve and comprises 141 components, including 21 jewels, all within a thin profile of 3.1mm.

A key distinguishing factor is the treatment of the main plate and bridges. These components are crafted from 18K rose gold, not merely to complement the case but because, as Enrico Barbasini explains, gold is a noble metal that beautifully highlights traditional hand-finishing, which is crucial for a skeletonized movement. The bridges and plates have been extensively open-worked while maintaining structural integrity, reliability, and chronometric precision. The movement features delicate hand-finishing, including numerous internal angles, black polished steel elements, straight-grained top surfaces, and polished countersinks. As expected for a timepiece in this category, the movement is meticulously shaped to align with the contours of the double-ellipse case, creating a harmonious and aesthetically pleasing integration.

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is presented on a understated and supple beige calfskin strap, secured with a gold pin buckle. This timepiece is part of the permanent collection but will be produced in limited quantities. It is priced at CHF 85,000, excluding taxes. Further details are available on the official Daniel Roth website. This offering represents a fusion of traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design, appealing to collectors and enthusiasts alike.

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