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Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 & Naoya Hida & Co. Collaboration: A Fusion of Horological Heritage and Japanese Craftsmanship

June 02

Zenith unveils a remarkable new iteration of its esteemed Calibre 135, born from an exciting partnership with the independent Japanese watchmaking house, Naoya Hida & Co. This collaboration represents a significant milestone for Zenith in contemporary watchmaking, showcasing the enduring appeal of its award-winning movement alongside Hida's signature design philosophy. The resulting timepiece, a limited-edition double-signed watch, beautifully marries Swiss horological prowess with Japanese artisanal tradition, creating a piece that resonates with both historical reverence and modern sophistication.

The latest rendition of the Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135, developed in conjunction with Naoya Hida & Co., continues the legacy established with Zenith's 160th-anniversary editions. Unlike the 2022 release that featured meticulously restored vintage movements, this new creation incorporates a re-engineered version of the iconic Calibre 135. This movement, widely celebrated during the observatory chronometer era for its numerous accolades, is a cornerstone of Zenith's heritage, demonstrating the brand's expansive mechanical capabilities beyond its renowned El Primero chronograph. The decision to collaborate with an independent watchmaker like Naoya Hida for aesthetic enhancement rather than movement restoration signifies a fresh approach to honoring this historical caliber.

Naoya Hida & Co., founded in 2018, is celebrated for crafting watches that evoke the golden age of mechanical horology, spanning the 1930s to the 1960s. Hida's design ethos masterfully blends traditional artisanal techniques with contemporary manufacturing, prioritizing balanced proportions, elegant typography, exquisite finishing, and subtle detailing over ostentatious displays. This philosophy aligns seamlessly with the G.F.J. Calibre 135's mid-century origins, making the collaboration feel organic and authentic. The double-signed format, a nod to vintage collector preferences for watches bearing both manufacturer and retailer names, further enhances its historical connection. This partnership allows Zenith to tap into a rich vein of watchmaking history, presenting a piece that feels both classic and innovative.

The new watch boasts a sophisticated 39.15mm platinum case, measuring 10.5mm in thickness and 45.75mm lug-to-lug, proportions thoughtfully chosen to complement its refined aesthetic. While offering a water resistance of 5 ATM, its primary appeal lies in its intricate design rather than aquatic performance. The dial, crafted from solid silver, features hand-engraved text and markers meticulously filled with blue lacquer, a detail that imparts greater visual depth than conventional printing. White gold hour and minute hands, precisely CNC-machined and hand-polished, are paired with a heat-blued steel small seconds hand, exemplifying attention to detail.

Driving this exquisite timepiece is the manually wound Zenith Calibre 135, operating at 18,000 vibrations per hour and offering a substantial 72-hour power reserve. Key technical features include a large variable-inertia balance wheel, a Breguet overcoil, a stop-seconds mechanism, and spring-mounted jewel settings for the balance staff. The movement is adorned with Zenith's signature double-arrow regulator and finished with elegant broad Geneva stripes, hand chamfering, and a dark ruthenium treatment accented by gold-colored markings. Each movement is regulated to an impressive accuracy of ±2 seconds per day and holds COSC chronometer certification, ensuring exceptional precision. Aesthetically, the caliber retains its distinct mid-century charm.

The watch is accompanied by three meticulously crafted straps, each a testament to Japanese artistry: one in Himeji Kurozan leather with urushi lacquer applications, another in wagyu leather from Kyoto artisans, and a third in indigo Japanese non-stretch denim by Kaihara Denim. A platinum pin buckle, engraved with the G.F.J. initials, completes the luxurious presentation. This exclusive timepiece is limited to just 10 examples, priced at €65,900 / US$75,000 / £57,400 / CHF 58,900.

The harmonious blend of Zenith's horological legacy with Naoya Hida's refined aesthetic truly elevates this watch beyond a mere collaboration. It embodies a shared appreciation for precision, artistry, and historical context. The subtle yet profound impact of Hida's design, from the hand-engraved dial inscriptions to the selection of Japanese artisanal straps, transforms this timepiece into a unique narrative of cross-cultural craftsmanship. This limited edition not only celebrates Zenith's storied past but also points to an exciting future of thoughtful partnerships in haute horlogerie, setting a remarkable standard for subsequent co-signed projects.

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