Petermann-Bédat has launched a new limited edition of its 1826 model for The Hour Glass Japan, presenting a refined dress watch with a reduced 36mm case size. This new iteration, available in white and rose gold, marks a significant design evolution from its 38mm predecessor, the 1825. This article delves into the watchmakers' journey, the technical sophistication of the in-house caliber 233, and the subtle aesthetic adjustments that cater to a nuanced appreciation for horological artistry.

My recent visit to the Petermann-Bédat workshop in Renes offered a firsthand look at their latest creation. Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, whom I deeply respect for their artistic vision and craftsmanship, are the driving force behind this independent watchmaking endeavor. Their commitment to their craft extends beyond mere production; it reflects a genuine passion for creating exceptional timepieces. This personal connection with the watchmakers enhances the appreciation for their work, transforming each watch into a piece of wearable art.

The brand's trajectory has seen a fascinating shift, moving from technically intricate deadbeat watches and complex split-second wristwatches to the more understated elegance of their current three-hand models. This transition highlights their versatility and willingness to explore different horological expressions. While their earlier works showcased their technical prowess through semi-open dials, the 1826 embraces a more traditional aesthetic, focusing on refined details and a subtle, enduring appeal. This approach challenges the prevalent trend of overtly showcasing finishing techniques, instead opting for a more nuanced presentation.

The original 1825 model, with its 38mm case and 10.15mm thickness, was already well-received for its balanced proportions. The new 36mm version maintains the same thickness, offering a significantly different feel on the wrist without sacrificing its elegant profile. Even for individuals with larger wrists, the 36mm case size provides a comfortable and sophisticated fit, underscoring the meticulous attention to detail in its design.

The workshop itself provides a unique insight into the creation process. While Petermann-Bédat relies on external suppliers for certain components, the founders themselves are actively involved in the assembly and finishing of their watches. This hands-on approach ensures the highest standards of craftsmanship and a personal touch in every timepiece. A noteworthy innovation from Gaël Petermann is the development of a cost-effective machine for Geneva stripes, with plans to share the blueprints online, promoting accessibility and fostering a collaborative spirit within the watchmaking community.

The dial of the 1826, crafted by Oliver Vaucher, retains elements of the original 1825's sector design but with refined adjustments. Available in black grand feu enamel and white ivory grand feu enamel, these dials feature printed logos, minute, and second tracks. While the presented models are prototypes, they offer a clear vision of the exquisite craftsmanship and sophisticated design that define the 1826 series.

The movement, the in-house caliber 233, is a testament to Petermann-Bédat's dedication to high-end watchmaking. It draws inspiration from the vintage aesthetic championed by figures like Philippe Dufour, particularly in its large, free-sprung balance wheel operating at 18,000 vibrations per hour and an overcoil hairspring. The movement's design emphasizes symmetry and intricate detailing, featuring bell-shaped open-worked bridges, a prominent jewel for the mainspring barrel, and a swan-neck regulator. Crafted from German silver with gold wheels, the caliber boasts a 56-hour power reserve.

The finishing of the caliber 233 is a highlight, with extensive black-polishing on numerous surfaces and impeccably executed chamfers. While such a high level of finishing is expected in this segment, Petermann-Bédat distinguishes itself through the thoughtful design of the movement, which captivates the observer's eye with its intricate details and harmonious layout.

The case design has also undergone subtle yet impactful changes. The lugs are more gracefully sloped, and a box crystal replaces the domed one, altering the watch's profile and enhancing its perceived slenderness on the wrist. These design decisions contribute to a more refined and understated elegance, perfectly aligning with the Japanese market's appreciation for classic and sophisticated timepieces.

The new 1826 model from Petermann-Bédat is a testament to meticulous craftsmanship and a keen understanding of market preferences. Priced at CHF 96,000, it reflects the brand's commitment to small-batch production and exceptional quality, appealing to collectors who value both technical excellence and refined aesthetics. This timepiece embodies a developing design language that promises a distinguished future for the brand.