A Legacy Reborn: Oris Star Edition

Tracing the Origins: The Transformative "Oris Star"

For many contemporary enthusiasts of Oris watches, the true turning point in the brand's history might not be immediately apparent. However, Oris is now drawing attention to a crucial moment from 1966 that redefined its trajectory. This pivotal shift was marked by the introduction of the original Oris Star, the brand's first watch to incorporate the lever escapement, a significant departure from its earlier designs. The re-release of the Oris Star Edition, 60 years later, serves as a powerful reminder of this foundational period.

The Unsung Hero: Dr. Rolf Portmann's Historic Battle for Innovation

The ubiquity of the Swiss lever escapement in modern mechanical watches belies a history of stringent regulations that once constrained its adoption. Under the Swiss Watch Statute, enacted in 1934, brands were prohibited from integrating new technologies into their products if those technologies were not already part of their established repertoire. This restrictive law forced many manufacturers, including Oris, to rely on older pin-lever escapements, hindering their ability to innovate and compete.

A Legal Triumph: Paving the Way for Modern Watchmaking

The narrative shifts with Dr. Rolf Portmann, whose remarkable dedication to challenging this archaic legislation proved transformative for Oris. As a lawyer deeply connected to the company—his father having worked there—Portmann spearheaded a legal battle against the Swiss government. His eventual victory led to the repeal of the restrictive law, opening the doors for Oris to embrace the modern lever escapement. The original Oris Star watch was a direct outcome of this triumph, marking the beginning of a new era for the brand. The new Oris Star Edition celebrates the 60th anniversary of this pivotal moment, integrating updated standards while preserving its historical essence.

Design and Mechanics: A Harmonious Blend of Vintage and Modern

The Oris Star Edition pays homage to its predecessor with a meticulously preserved vintage size. It features a 35mm stainless steel case, an 11.1mm thickness, and a 41.5mm lug-to-lug measurement, mirroring the exact dimensions of the original "Star Twen." The watch's silver dial, adorned with applied and faceted indexes, a date window, and a distinctive cross-hatch sector pattern, exudes classic elegance. Powering this retro-inspired timepiece is the updated Oris Calibre 733, an automatic movement derived from the Sellita SW-200, providing a reliable 41-hour power reserve. With 50m water resistance, a captivating sunburst dial, and elegantly chamfered edges, the Oris Star Edition is a testament to timeless design and modern engineering. Scheduled for release in May, it will retail for CHF 1,800.

Personal Reflections: The Enduring Impact of a Historic Story

Reflecting on significant moments in watch journalism, encountering Dr. Rolf Portmann during a trip to Switzerland stands out. His story is deeply intertwined with Oris's heritage and the broader history of its hometown. Despite his advanced age, Dr. Portmann's humility and continued engagement with the brand's latest innovations left a lasting impression. His instrumental role in dismantling an outdated law fundamentally reshaped Swiss watchmaking, averting a potential crisis for many companies. The new Oris Star Edition, though perhaps smaller than some contemporary preferences, is a beautifully crafted tribute that marries historical significance with enhanced reliability and water resistance, making it an appealing choice for vintage watch enthusiasts.

Core Attributes: Detailing the Oris Star Edition

The Oris Star Edition, with its Reference Number 733 7813 4151-07 5 17 02, features a 35mm diameter, 41.5mm lug-to-lug, and 11.1mm thickness. Encased in a multi-piece stainless steel body, it boasts a silver-toned dial with applied indexes and Super-LumiNova® luminescence on the hands and indices. Water-resistant to 50m, it comes with a black leather strap and pin buckle.

Internal Mechanics: Precision and Performance

Powering the watch is the Oris Calibre 733, an automatic movement with central hands for hours, minutes, and seconds, a date window, and quick-set date correction. It includes a fine timing device and stop-second function. The movement measures 25.6mm in diameter and 4.6mm in thickness, operates at a frequency of 4Hz, contains 26 jewels, and offers a 41-hour power reserve. It is not chronometer certified.

Market Details: Price and Availability

The Oris Star Edition will be available in May 2026, priced at CHF 1,800. It is not a limited edition release.