The Enduring Allure of a Classic Timepiece

A Childhood Dream Takes Root: The Genesis of a Watch Obsession

This past summer marked the fulfillment of a long-standing aspiration: to own a Rolex GMT-Master II. My particular desire was for the renowned pilot's watch featuring a vibrant red-and-blue bezel. Coincidentally, I purchased my watch in the same year this configuration was retired from Rolex's current lineup, though this decision had no bearing on my choice. Over time, I realized that it was the previous generation, the five-digit reference, that truly held my affection. Its more slender lugs, understated dial, and brilliant aluminum bezel perfectly embodied my memories of the GMT-Master II. Several other factors contributed to this decision, which I will elaborate on shortly. So, prepare for an engaging journey through timepieces.

Early Encounters: Rolex's Distinctive Charm

Before delving into my reasons for selecting the reference 16710, let's rewind to the origins of my fascination with watches. I distinctly recall poring over yachting magazines and watch catalogs in the 1990s and early 2000s. Watch advertisements were ubiquitous in these publications, and catalogs from brands like TAG Heuer, Omega, Breitling, and Rolex became cherished reading material. Breitling's advertisements, enhanced by Kevin T. Kelly's unique artwork, left a lasting impression. Omega fueled youthful fantasies through its association with James Bond. Rolex, however, adopted a much more understated approach in its marketing.

The "Pepsi" Bezel: A Striking Introduction to Color

Amidst the black-bezel Submariners and the more traditional two-tone Datejusts of my grandfather's era, one watch stood out dramatically: the GMT-Master with its bold red-and-blue bezel. At the time, I had no understanding of how a GMT watch functioned, nor did I grasp its connection to Pan Am or the practical distinction between day and night on a 24-hour scale. What I did know was that its bezel was unlike anything else in the catalog. My initial reaction was one of disbelief; I couldn't fathom why Rolex would create such a colorful timepiece. By contemporary standards, with intricate "jigsaw-puzzle" and "palm-dial" designs now commonplace, the "Pepsi" bezel appears almost conservative. Back then, however, its vividness was strikingly unique. This image indelibly imprinted itself upon my mind.

A Decade-Long Aspiration: The Path to Watch Ownership

I vividly remember thinking, "When I grow up, I want a Rolex with a red-and-blue bezel." It would take a considerable amount of time for that dream to materialize. From the mid-2000s until 2014, my wrist was almost exclusively adorned with a Seiko Titanium Chronograph SND419P1. I worked diligently to persuade my father to buy me that particular watch. At £200, it represented a significant birthday gift at the time. He initially encouraged me towards the slightly more affordable Citizen Eco-Drive models, but I was captivated by the aesthetics and feel of the Seiko. I still possess it today, though it now spends more time in its watch box than on my wrist.

The Reignition of Passion: A Return to Swiss Horology

Everything changed in 2014 when my father passed down his Breitling Aerospace Avantage as I embarked on my professional career. Wearing a Swiss watch rekindled a passion that had never truly faded. Before long, I was deeply immersed in the world of horology. I began writing about watches with Kristian Haagen in 2016, joined Fratello in 2019, and delved further into the hobby and the industry. Ironically, throughout much of that period, Rolex did not offer a steel GMT-Master II with a red-and-blue bezel. My ultimate dream watch remained elusive. At the time, I held a firm belief that newer was inherently superior. As a novice collector, acquiring pre-owned watches held little appeal. Over the years, this perspective gradually shifted.

The Modern Pepsi's Disappointment: A Divergence from Expectation

Then, in 2018, Rolex re-introduced the Pepsi GMT-Master II in stainless steel. I believed my long-awaited moment had arrived. This was the watch that had captivated my imagination for nearly two decades. I promptly added my name to the waiting list on launch day, anticipating a lengthy wait. Ultimately, I discovered that a sales associate was reluctant to sell me a Rolex due to my involvement with watch media. Rather than abandon something I genuinely enjoyed, I accepted the situation and moved forward. I could have started anew with another authorized dealer, but the prospect of rebuilding years of purchase history from scratch was not particularly appealing. In hindsight, this turn of events may have been a blessing.

The Allure of the Neo-Vintage: Discovering the True Dream Watch

Over the subsequent years, I frequently encountered friends' GMT-Master II Ref. 126710BLRO watches. Donning it for the first time, I anticipated a moment of profound recognition, like Anton Ego's ratatouille experience, where the watch would instantly transport me back to those childhood catalog pages. Instead, I felt no connection. The Maxi dial details appeared disproportionately large. The ceramic bezel felt subdued compared to the aluminum inserts I remembered. Even the Jubilee bracelet, with its polished inner links, seemed more ostentatious than I had expected. Crucially, it bore little resemblance to the watch that had captured my imagination in the late 1990s and early 2000s. My true dream watch had never been the contemporary GMT-Master II; it had always been its predecessor.

The Quest for Perfection: Navigating Variations and Sub-Categories

With the Rolex GMT-Master II Reference 16710 now firmly established as my desired timepiece, the process should have been as simple as acquiring one, right? Indeed, there were numerous examples available. However, the reference was produced from 1989 to 2007, presenting a complex landscape of variations and sub-categories to navigate. Eighteen years is an unusually extended production run for any watch reference, and Rolex introduced numerous modifications during this period. The 16710 was also the second GMT-Master II to feature an independently adjustable local hour hand, making it one of the most user-friendly GMT watches ever created. Preceding it was the Reference 16760, produced from 1982 to 1988 and affectionately known among collectors as the "Fat Lady" or "Sophia Loren." That watch introduced the red-and-black "Coke" bezel to the GMT-Master II line but featured a noticeably thicker case due to its movement architecture. Rolex successfully streamlined everything for the 16710, resulting in a significantly more versatile watch.

Defining the Ideal: Modern Upgrades and Neo-Vintage Charm

There were ample opportunities to pursue a "birth-year" example from 1989. However, my focus shifted to finding a watch from the era when I first encountered the GMT-Master II in those catalogs. Rather than fixating on a specific year, I narrowed my search to approximately 2000 through 2005 and began evaluating the merits of each evolutionary advancement. My ideal watch was a fusion of modern enhancements and neo-vintage appeal. By 2000, Rolex had transitioned to Super-LumiNova, providing the watch with a brighter and more enduring green luminescence than tritium. Another welcome improvement was the shift from hollow to solid end links. The older folded-steel design always struck me as somewhat rudimentary, utilizing protruding tabs beneath the lugs to secure the bracelet. While functional, it lacked elegance. Solid end links were a desirable feature to confirm. Even then, my search remained broad. The next significant decision involved choosing between drilled exterior lug holes or smooth case sides. Ultimately, I felt that the "no-holes" case complemented the later bracelet upgrades more harmoniously. This preference considerably narrowed the field, leading me to primarily consider watches produced from late 2002 to 2005. This also implied that most candidates would feature the later sans-serif or block-font bezel insert.

The Goldilocks Principle: Finding the Just-Right Timepiece

With these parameters established, the search became more manageable. At the upper echelons of the market, Rolex Certified Pre-Owned offered some exceptional examples. However, the premium associated with them was difficult to justify for me. While the Rolex warranty and contribution to spending history held some appeal, many reputable independent dealers also provide one- or two-year warranties. Conversely, I explored Hatton Garden in London and viewed examples lacking original boxes, papers, or particularly convincing provenance. These experiences proved invaluable. Examining watches across the entire price spectrum quickly taught me what truly mattered. For a luxury acquisition of this nature, I desired a complete package: original box, papers, booklets, and a documented service history.

The Successful Acquisition: A Dream Realized

Eventually, I located a remarkable example through Chrono24 from a UK dealer. The watch dated back to 2003 and was originally supplied through Rolex UK in Manchester. It was also a late Y-series example, making it one of the earliest GMT-Master II references without drilled lug holes. My only initial hesitation stemmed from a slightly damaged sapphire crystal, which I will elaborate on shortly. The bezel had also been replaced in 2023, precisely 20 years after the watch's initial sale. Fortunately, Rolex had performed the work, and the replacement maintained a historically accurate red-and-blue insert with the later sans-serif font. This detail was important because some GMT-Master IIs were originally equipped with black bezels before later receiving red-and-blue inserts. Rolex documentation provided me with the assurance that this watch left the factory as a Pepsi and remains so today. The crystal damage, while regrettable, was relatively simple to rectify. Considering the overall condition of the case, bracelet, and accompanying paperwork, it was not enough to deter the purchase. Inspecting the watch in person proved essential; I was unwilling to spend £10,000 without first handling it. With my decision made, I finalized the transaction and brought the watch home. But not before spending some time exploring the dealer's city and capturing photographs of the GMT-Master II against the stunning backdrop of its cathedral. I briefly considered later examples from 2006 and 2007. These final-production watches with "stick" dials sometimes housed the upgraded caliber 3186, featuring Rolex's blue Parachrom hairspring and a refined GMT mechanism. While these later references were appealing, their prices had significantly escalated. Examples often traded for well over £20,000. This comfortably placed them beyond my budget, making the caliber 3185-powered Y-series watch feel like the ideal choice.

Maintaining the Legacy: Servicing and Minor Adjustments

Replacing the crystal was straightforward. It also provided an opportunity to inspect the movement and meticulously clean the dial. Mechanically, everything was in excellent order, and even the crown tube remained in good condition. Its accuracy was impressive, and the movement exhibited only minor cosmetic aging consistent with over two decades of use. All gaskets were also replaced for added peace of mind. I acknowledge that owning a five-digit Rolex necessitates a few compromises. The hollow-center-link Oyster bracelet can develop stretch over time, though mine remains well within acceptable limits. One bracelet screw had also slightly loosened, an issue easily resolved with a small amount of Loctite. The stamped clasp is noticeably simpler than modern Rolex equivalents, and adjusting it requires tools rather than the sophisticated on-the-fly systems available today. Nevertheless, these minor trade-offs are easily overlooked once the watch is on the wrist. After all, this is the watch I dreamt about as a teenager.

A Rewarding Conclusion: The Fulfillment of a Lifelong Passion

The Rolex GMT-Master II Reference 16710, with its iconic red-and-blue bezel, has finally become a prized possession in my collection. It has already accompanied me on business trips, special events, and everyday adventures. In fact, it has likely been my most frequently worn watch over the past two months. The journey to acquire it was extensive, but it proved to be incredibly worthwhile. The search itself helped to refine my preferences and made the eventual ownership all the more gratifyin