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DUG Glashütte Purist Typ 1: A New Era of German Watchmaking

June 09

Glashütte, Germany, a region celebrated for its horological excellence, welcomes a promising new entrant: Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte, or DUG Glashütte. The brand's inaugural collection, particularly the Purist Typ 1, signals an impressive beginning, blending traditional Saxon watchmaking principles with modern design sensibilities. This timepiece promises high quality and heritage, making it a noteworthy addition to the landscape of German horology.

DUG Glashütte distinguishes itself through a unique interpretation of Glashütte watchmaking. The brand's dedication to local manufacturing is evident in its adherence to strict criteria, ensuring that at least half of a watch's value originates from the region and that crucial assembly stages are completed within Glashütte. This commitment allows the watches to proudly bear the 'Glashütte/SA' designation on their dials, signifying their authentic German craftsmanship. This approach is particularly remarkable given the competitive pricing of their offerings.

Founded by Toni Brodführer, DUG Glashütte unveiled its first creation, the Purist, last year. The collection includes various configurations, such as the Purist Typ 1 with baton markers, the Purist Typ 2 with a combination of Arabic numerals and batons, and the Purist Typ 2 California Dial. All models share a 40mm stainless steel case, measuring 10.95mm in height and 47.5mm lug-to-lug. The cases feature sapphire crystals on both sides, and the brand's distinctive diamond-shaped crown adds a touch of elegance. The case finishing is meticulously executed, showcasing a striking contrast between brushed and polished surfaces.

The Purist Typ 1, specifically, boasts a textured dial available in Onyx Black, Moon White, and Royal Blue, with special editions in Granit Grey and Tonka Brown. The dial's central section features a refined granular texture. Blue and grey dial variations exhibit a subtle gradient effect, transitioning to black towards the minute track. Hour markers and hands are equipped with Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility, and an optional date function, integrated within a bevelled window at the 6 o'clock position, is available. The watch's design achieves a remarkable balance of minimalism and visual depth, ensuring clarity without sacrificing aesthetic appeal.

A key aspect of DUG Glashütte's commitment to local production lies in its movement. The brand collaborates with strategic regional partners, including Malon, a precision engineering firm affiliated with Bruno Söhnle. This collaboration allows DUG Glashütte to transform the Sellita SW400 base movement into the Calibre DUG 400 within Glashütte. Each movement undergoes a meticulous process of disassembly, hand-finishing, and reassembly, followed by rigorous testing before being cased. The Calibre DUG 400 maintains the performance characteristics of its Swiss counterpart, operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and providing a 40-hour power reserve, regulated to an impressive accuracy of +2 seconds per day. The movement's aesthetics are further enhanced with perlage decoration on the bridges and plates, blued screws, and a bespoke, gold-plated open-worked rotor crafted in-house.

The DUG Glashütte Purist Typ 1 and its siblings are offered with either a buffalo leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet, with the latter incurring a premium. An additional charge applies for the date function. Priced between EUR 1,199 and EUR 1,399, depending on chosen options, the Purist collection strategically positions itself in a market segment below more established Glashütte brands such as Nomos and Union Glashütte, and significantly below luxury manufacturers like Glashütte Original, Moritz Grossmann, or A. Lange & Söhne. With its compelling design, adaptability, and exceptional value proposition, DUG Glashütte appears well-prepared for a successful trajectory in the watch industry.

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