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Bremont Altitude Chronograph Pulsograph Valjoux 23: A Fusion of Vintage Movement and Modern Design

April 16
Bremont’s latest offering, the Altitude Chronograph Pulsograph Valjoux 23, is a limited-edition timepiece that masterfully combines a historical movement with modern watchmaking innovation. This release highlights Bremont’s evolving direction under CEO Davide Cerrato, who is introducing unexpected and sophisticated models while maintaining the brand’s core spirit of robust, aviation-inspired watches. It’s a testament to marrying the old and the new, creating a distinct piece for discerning collectors.

Experience Timeless Precision: The Bremont Altitude Chronograph Pulsograph Valjoux 23 – Where Heritage Meets Enduring Craftsmanship.

A Bold New Direction: Evolving Bremont’s Legacy with Unexpected Creations

Since Davide Cerrato assumed leadership in 2023, Bremont has shown a willingness to explore novel horological avenues, dispelling concerns that the brand’s aviation and tool-watch ethos would diminish. While the revitalized Altitude Collection, with its Martin-Baker-inspired resilience and Trip-Tick cases, affirmed Bremont’s foundational strengths, Cerrato has also introduced surprising new models. These include the intriguing Terra Nova Jumping Hour and the complex Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT Mono-Pusher Skeleton, showcasing sophisticated modules and innovative construction. The Altitude Chronograph Pulsograph Valjoux 23 further exemplifies this daring approach, blending a classic Valjoux chronograph movement with Bremont’s signature robust casing.

Robust Construction Meets Elegant Design: The 42mm Chronograph’s Enduring Appeal

The 42mm chronograph integrates Bremont’s re-engineered three-part Trip-Tick case, which expertly encases a central titanium barrel between the watch’s top and back. This design is further enhanced by a flexible, rubberized anti-shock mount and an anti-magnetic soft-iron ring, safeguarding the intricate movement. Crafted from lightweight yet durable brushed titanium, the watch boasts a refined height of 12.52mm, attributed to the slender profile of the Valjoux movement. Featuring traditional piston-style pushers and a prominent screw-down crown, the timepiece maintains an impressive 100-meter water resistance, ensuring both elegance and practical durability.

The Heart of History: Celebrating the Iconic Valjoux 23 Movement

The distinguishing feature of this timepiece is the integration of a New Old Stock (NOS) Valjoux 23 chronograph movement. Revered as one of the 20th century’s most distinguished manual-winding chronograph movements, the Valjoux 23 was in production from 1916 to 1974 and was favored by elite watchmakers such as Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Although Bremont has not disclosed the exact origin date of this particular restored movement, its compact dimensions (29.5mm x 5.8mm) and characteristic elements, including the nine-pillar column wheel, graceful levers, and the distinctive Y-shaped central bridge, unequivocally confirm its esteemed heritage.

Artful Restoration: Chronode’s Masterful Touch on a Vintage Caliber

The vintage Valjoux 23 movement, meticulously sourced and restored by Chronode, the renowned haute horlogerie workshop led by Jean-François Mojon, has been imbued with contemporary finishing techniques. The bridges, including the prominent Y-bridge, exhibit a finely grained texture complemented by contrasting mirror-polished chamfers, reflecting a harmonious blend of historical integrity and modern craftsmanship.

A Glimpse into the Past: The Art Deco Inspired Salmon Dial

The salmon-toned dial of the Altitude Chronograph Pulsograph Valjoux 23 pays homage to the popular pinkish-coppery dials of the Art Deco period. Highlighting its vintage inspiration, the chronograph features a finely graduated pulsometer scale along its edge, a vital instrument for medical professionals in the early 20th century to measure heart rates. This detail not only adds historical charm but also practical functionality to the timepiece.

Intricate Details: A Multi-Textured Dial and Refined Sub-Dials

The dial showcases a sophisticated interplay of textures and finishes. The smooth surface of the pulsometer seamlessly transitions to a snailed minutes track, accented by Super-LumiNova blocks at five-minute intervals. The broader chapter ring, adorned with applied stencil-style gold Arabic numerals featuring white Super-LumiNova inserts (emitting a blue glow), displays a grained finish. The central area of the salmon dial is distinguished by a vertically brushed texture, adding depth and visual interest.

Craftsmanship in Motion: Hands, Sub-Dials, and Crystal Details

The two sub-dials, comprising a 30-minute totalizer at 3 o’clock and running seconds at 9 o’clock, are designed with striking brushed silver-colored, snailed interiors. Bremont’s signature three-pronged propeller logo is ingeniously incorporated as the running seconds hand, tipped with white luminescence. All hands are crafted from black gold, with Super-LumiNova enhancing the hour and minute hands for optimal readability. The vintage-inspired glass-box sapphire crystal, protecting the dial, creates intriguing optical distortions at the periphery, adding to the watch’s unique character.

Exclusivity and Presentation: Limited Edition Details and Pricing

This exclusive timepiece, limited to a mere 40 units, is paired with a rich brown nubuck leather strap, featuring ecru box stitching, a convenient quick-release system, and a titanium pin buckle. The watch is available at a retail price of GBP 24,950, reflecting its rarity, historical movement, and meticulous craftsmanship.

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