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Audemars Piguet Introduces New "Atelier Des ￉tablisseurs" Program at Watches and Wonders

April 14

Audemars Piguet, a name synonymous with luxury watchmaking, is set to make a significant statement at Watches and Wonders, introducing its groundbreaking "Atelier Des Établisseurs" program. This new initiative is a bold departure from conventional, vertically integrated production, instead embracing the historical Swiss tradition of 'établissage' – a decentralized approach where various independent artisans contribute specialized components to create a finished timepiece. This program, led by the brand's Heritage Department, seeks to produce extraordinary, unique timepieces, emphasizing artistic craftsmanship, individual customization, and unprecedented transparency regarding the artisans involved.

Details of Audemars Piguet's New Program and Debut Creations

The Watches and Wonders event marks a pivotal moment for Audemars Piguet as it unveils the "Atelier Des Établisseurs." This program represents a deliberate shift, moving beyond the brand's recent focus on research and development or high-volume novelties. Instead, it harks back to the traditional Swiss watchmaking ecosystem of the 18th to mid-20th centuries, where skilled independent craftspeople collaborated to assemble intricate timepieces. This historical method, deeply rooted in regions like the Vallée de Joux, fostered a rich network of specialized artisans, from casemakers to dialmakers.

Audemars Piguet's CEO, Ilaria Resta, alongside Heritage and Museum Director Sébastian Vivas, conceived this program after exploring the brand's diverse historical designs. They recognized the agility and creative freedom that the original établissage system provided. The new Atelier, housed within the Audemars Piguet Museum, will operate with remarkable transparency, openly crediting every artisan involved in each project, a stark contrast to the often secretive nature of large luxury brands.

The program will debut with three distinct and highly individualized timepieces:

  • Établisseurs Galets: Conceived by independent designer Xavier J. Perrenoud, this watch draws inspiration from the smooth pebbles of Lac de Joux. Its asymmetrical bracelet, crafted by Genevan jeweler Nadia Morgenthaler, features pebble-shaped gold links of various sizes, interconnected by tiny ball joints. These links are inlaid with semi-precious stones like turquoise and tiger's eye, shaped with no flat edges, a testament to the skill of Mario Senape's Cossonay workshops. The central, asymmetrical oval case, created by Théo Massouatis and Pablo Brenlla in Geneva, houses a turquoise stone dial and an exhibition caseback. Through the caseback, the Calibre 3098 is visible, a modified version of AP's first in-house movement, reimagined by watch movement constructor Arthur Gallezot with pebble-like bridges and meticulously finished by Luca Soprana. Aline Gagneux is responsible for the final assembly and adjustment. Five variations will be released in 2026, with limited annual production.
  • Établisseurs Peacock: Designed by Kenan Géraud from Audemars Piguet, this sculptural watch transcends traditional timekeeping. In its closed state, it resembles a beetle, but a secret opening system by Giulio Papi reveals a peacock's head, unfurling wings, and an enameled dial that tilts forward to display dragging hours. The curved, multi-part case and dramatic wings are expertly crafted by Adrian Altman, featuring hammered and engraved portions. Jeweler Ywan Kunzle meticulously forms and finishes each link of the bracelet. The gold dial, created by Vincent Michel and hand-engraved by Guy Froidevaux, is then champlevé-enameled in various shades by Vanessa Lecci. Three variations are planned for release in 2027.
  • Établisseurs Nomade: Ludovic Python's creation is a unique pocket-slash-table clock, blending ultra-modern aesthetics with traditional caliber decoration. The 68mm-by-42mm case, designed to fit in a pocket, features a dramatically faceted, stone-inlaid exterior attached to a 30 cm titanium chain. With the push of two buttons, it slides open to reveal an inner case that articulates into a desk clock. The inner case frames sections of meteorite and the dramatically skeletonized Calibre 7501, based on the AP Calibre 7121. This movement features extensively removed material, with remaining bridges doubling as hour markers, meticulously cut by a specialist using a hacksaw and finished by Jérôme Besançon. Emmanuel Desuzinges contributed to the casing and pivoting system, Mario Senape to the stone setting, and Alexis Bernard to the sapphire crystals. Approximately 15 pieces of the Nomade will be produced over several years, with five variations available in 2026.

This initiative represents a strategic move by Audemars Piguet to highlight its rich heritage and showcase exceptional artistry, ensuring that the human element and intricate skills behind haute horlogerie receive due recognition.

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